Paul Lally's Masonry Inc.

Brick Replacement · Homer Glen, IL

Brick Replacement in Homer Glen, IL — Big Elevations, Small Repairs

Homer Glen homes have big walls, and a big wall makes a small repair look scarier than it is. Usually a few dozen units come out and the elevation carries on for decades.

Quick Answer

Brick replacement in Homer Glen, IL is the removal of individually failed bricks — spalled, cracked, or crumbling — and installation of matched replacements tied into the surrounding wall. Matching size, color, texture, mortar, and joint profile is what makes the repair blend in. Paul Lally's Masonry has served Chicagoland since 1988. Free estimates: (708) 448-8866.

Color-matched replacement brick set into a repaired wall on a Homer Glen, IL home by Paul Lally's Masonry

Homer Glen homes tend to be large, and large walls play a trick on you. A few dozen spalled bricks scattered across a two-story elevation reads, from the driveway, like the whole wall is finished.

It usually isn't. Brick replacement in Homer Glen, IL is a surgical repair — the units that have genuinely failed come out, matched replacements go in, the joints around them get repointed, and that elevation carries on for decades. Paul Lally's Masonry has been doing it across Chicagoland since 1988.

Replacement or tuckpointing? The clean test

| Symptom | What failed | The fix | |---|---|---| | Mortar soft, sandy, receding | The joints | Tuckpointing / repointing | | Brick faces flaking, powdering, popping | The bricks — spalling | Replacement | | Bricks cracked through the unit | Unit failure | Replacement + fix the cause | | Cracked brick in a line above an opening | Rusting lintel | Lintel replacement first | | Stair-step crack through joints | Wall movement | Diagnose, then repoint or rebuild | | Bricks that rock by hand | Lost bond | Replacement, often localized rebuild | | A whole panel bulging outward | Failed ties on veneer | Assess anchorage — different repair |

Most jobs here are a combination — replace the dead units, repoint the joints around them.

Why brick fails

Water plus cold:

  1. Water enters the brick — a failed joint, a leaking gutter, splashback where soil or mulch sits high against the wall, an uncapped chimney.
  2. Temperature drops. The water inside expands roughly nine percent.
  3. That expansion pushes the hard fired face off the softer core.
  4. The face pops. The exposed core absorbs water faster, and the next winter does more.

That's spalling, and it's a repair rather than a cosmetic issue — a spalled brick has permanently lost its weather-resistant face and will keep deteriorating.

The other common cause here is rust jacking: a steel lintel over a wide opening corroding, swelling to several times its thickness, and cracking the brick it carries.

Signs you need brick replacement

  • Flaking, powdering, or popped faces — the spalling signature
  • Bricks cracked through the unit, not just the joint
  • Loose bricks that move under hand pressure
  • Missing chunks at corners, sills, and the base of the wall
  • A rough, sandy surface where a smooth fired face used to be
  • Cracked brick stacked above a window or garage door — suspect the lintel
  • Efflorescence and damp interior walls behind the affected area
  • Brick chips and sand collecting on the ground below
  • A panel that's bowing outward — that's anchorage, not brick

What waiting costs

Spalled brick has lost its face permanently. It absorbs more water every year, so the damage compounds rather than holding steady — it spreads into neighboring units and the mortar, water reaches the interior, and a few dozen replacement bricks becomes a section rebuild.

Brick failure never stays the same size. Catching it early is the difference between a contained repair and a wall.

How we replace brick without leaving a patch

  1. Diagnose the cause first. Mortar, gutter, grade, sealer, or lintel. Replacing a brick without closing the water path just resets the clock.
  2. Match the brick — size, color range, texture, and face. Salvaged units where a modern brick would read wrong.
  3. Cut out the failed unit cleanly, by hand and with careful grinding, without cracking neighbors. Speed ruins this step — a chipped brick arris never comes back.
  4. Prep the pocket — clean, dampened, ready to take mortar so the new unit genuinely bonds.
  5. Set the replacement with full bed and head joints, aligned to the coursing, plumb with the wall face.
  6. Match the mortar — color, sand, and type blended to the existing joints, not generic grey.
  7. Tool the joint to match the existing profile. This single detail decides whether the repair disappears.
  8. Repoint surrounding joints where they've failed.
  9. Keep the cavity clear. On veneer walls, mortar droppings must not block the drainage space or the weep holes at the base.
  10. Clean down and walk the work with you.

Materials — and why matching is most of the craft

Salvaged and new face brick and modern veneer units matched to the house. Mortar matched by type, color, and sand: standard Type N for most residential work here, softer mixes for older brick, Type S only where structure and exposure genuinely call for it.

The rule underneath everything: mortar should always be softer than the brick. A modern high-strength mortar packed against softer brick stops the joint absorbing movement, so the brick face takes the abuse instead — a "stronger" repair that destroys the wall it was meant to save, and unlike a bad joint it isn't reversible.

A Homer Glen advantage: most of the local housing stock uses blended face brick — walls built from a deliberate range of tones rather than one flat color. Blends are considerably more forgiving to match, because a replacement only has to fall inside a range the wall already contains.

What drives the cost

  • How many bricks are actually failing — and how many more appear once the area is opened
  • Location on the wall — ground level versus a two-story gable end requiring staging, which on a large Homer Glen elevation is a real portion of the job
  • Brick matching difficulty — a blend is straightforward; a discontinued single-tone unit takes sourcing
  • Whether the cause needs fixing too — a rusted lintel, a bad downspout, grade at the foundation
  • Repointing scope around the replacement area
  • Access — mature landscaping, decks, long approaches

There's no meaningful per-brick number. Paul Lally's Masonry gives a free on-site estimate in writing after looking at the actual wall.

Local context: Homer Glen brick

Homer Glen is a comparatively young community — incorporated in 2001, though its housing goes back further — with a distinctive character among the southwest suburbs: larger lots, generous setbacks, and substantial homes, many built through the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, alongside older farmhouse-era and mid-century stock on the acreage parcels.

Two things shape the brick work here.

Big elevations. Wide frontages, two-story masonry faces, tall gable ends, and three-car garage openings. That means more wall to inspect, staging for anything above the first floor, and long spans of steel lintel over the widest openings — steel that on most of this stock was never galvanized and is now thirty to fifty years into service.

More exposure than most suburbs. Larger lots and open surroundings mean less shelter from neighboring structures, so wind-driven rain reaches the walls with more force. The west and north elevations take a genuine beating and stay wetter longer, which is why the damage is so often concentrated on one side of the house.

Most of the stock is brick veneer over frame, which changes the diagnosis: a veneer wall is designed to let water in and drain it back out through a cavity and weep holes, so leaks often involve blocked weeps, failed flashing, or corroded ties rather than the brick face — and a bulging panel means anchorage, not mortar. See brick veneer vs. solid masonry.

Will County freeze-thaw does the rest: absorbed water expanding roughly nine percent each time it freezes, cycle after cycle, concentrated in the bottom three courses, around and under sills, at chimney shoulders, and directly above wide openings.

Related masonry services in Homer Glen

Brick replacement is usually part of a slightly larger picture. Homer Glen homeowners commonly pair it with tuckpointing and repointing, general brick repair, lintel repair and replacement, chimney repair and rebuilds, limestone and sill repair, caulking and joint sealant, and masonry waterproofing once the wall is sound. For whole-house work, residential masonry restoration.

Worth reading: brick repair vs. replacement, why is my brick spalling, and why your brick repair doesn't match.

Nearby: brick repair in Homer Glen, tuckpointing in Homer Glen, chimney repair in Homer Glen, residential masonry restoration in Homer Glen, and brick replacement in New Lenox.

Talk to a mason who'll tell you the truth about your brick

Paul Lally's Masonry Inc. is a family-owned, insured masonry contractor serving Chicago and the Chicagoland suburbs since 1988 — tuckpointing, brick repair and replacement, chimney repair and rebuilds, lintel replacement, masonry restoration, and waterproofing for residential and commercial properties. Built on Craftsmanship. Backed by Experience.

If a big elevation only needs three dozen bricks out, we'll tell you that. If the lintel is the real problem, we'll show you the steel. Our family name is on every job.

Free on-site estimates — call (708) 448-8866 or request an estimate online.

Brick Replacement in Homer Glen, IL — Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need brick replacement or tuckpointing?

Tuckpointing fixes the mortar joints; replacement fixes the bricks. If joints are soft and receding but brick faces are intact, you need tuckpointing. If faces are flaking, cracked through, or crumbling, those units come out — and the surrounding joints usually get repointed too, because the mortar that let water in is typically just as tired.

My whole elevation looks bad. Does the wall need rebuilding?

Almost never. Large Homer Glen elevations make a scattered handful of failed units read as a whole-wall problem from the driveway. A section only comes down and gets rebuilt when damage is genuinely widespread, the wall is bowing or displaced, or the masonry has lost its bond.

How much does brick replacement cost in Homer Glen, IL?

There's no per-brick figure worth quoting. Cost depends on how many units are failing, where they sit on the wall — a two-story gable end needs staging a ground-floor repair doesn't — how hard the brick is to source, and whether surrounding joints need repointing. Paul Lally's Masonry provides a free on-site estimate in writing.

Can you match brick on a 1990s or 2000s home?

Usually well. Much of Homer Glen is built with blended face brick, and blends are far more forgiving to match because a replacement only has to fall inside a tonal range the wall already contains. Discontinued single-tone brick is the harder case, and we'll show you the match against your wall before committing.

Why are my bricks flaking and crumbling?

That's spalling — water absorbed into the brick froze, expanded about nine percent, and popped the hard fired face off the softer core. Around Homer Glen the usual triggers are failing mortar joints, a leaking gutter or downspout, splashback at grade, and film-forming sealers that trapped moisture inside the wall.

The cracked brick is above my garage door. Is that different?

Yes, and it changes the repair. Cracked brick in a line above a wide opening usually means the steel lintel beneath is rusting and expanding, lifting the masonry. Replacing brick without replacing the lintel just resets the clock — the crack reopens as the steel keeps swelling.

Why is the damage worst on one side of my house?

Because that's the weather side. Homer Glen's larger lots and open surroundings mean less shelter from neighboring structures, so wind-driven rain reaches the west and north elevations with real force. Those walls stay wetter longer and cycle through freeze-thaw harder than the sheltered sides.

How long does the work take?

A localized replacement of a handful of units is often a same-visit job once material is on hand; a gable end or full elevation runs longer because of staging. Sourcing a matching brick can add lead time, and mortar needs workable temperatures to cure. We give a realistic schedule at the estimate.

Free on-site estimates across Chicagoland.

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